I’ve used straight heat from my Benzomatic and oil dips, light 0000 sanding, more heat and oil cold water dip to oil, but that way is trial and error, but color can be gotten this way, just have to have a non contact IR heat gun and watch the temperatures, the 348 is some strange SS anyhow, especially when your holding the 348 with some high quality SS tweezers and got some nice color on them but the 348 well I did better with some of these other products and turned out really good. I bought a bunch of the 348’s during the last GB and some of the SingFires when I see them on sale because I love messing with the metals myself and have had some good luck actually, the first 4 or 5 only turned out so so, but regular people loved them, but sure not what I had in mind so kept at it. I would like to darken my BLF 348, does someone know how to blacken/darken stainless steel ? Other stuff I’ve used that is much faster, and doesn’t pit the metal is gun-bluing solution (Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue).įor even more aggressive results, Birchwood Casey’s Aluminum Black works great too. Just a quick note: If you use the salt and ammonia or salt and vinegar method, use Kosher/sea salt (no iodine).Īlso, the salt will pit the copper if left on for an extended period (say, more than an hour at a time per “session”). And yep, I replaced the stock O-rings with some stiffer green ones I had laying around. I also used maroon and grey ScotchBrite pads afterwards. The coating was pretty thin, and came off fairly quickly with acetone and a medium-soft nylon cleaning brush. So, I was able to work with the tail-cap, tube, heat-sink, and bezel separately (I carefully taped off the emitter side of the heat sink just in case). I did disassemble the tail switch, and removed the head bezel. Did you need to take the Astrolux apart before removing the coating? Was it hard to remove? To prevent patina and rusting of the carbon knife blade it is best to avoid a hastened oxidation by cleaning and drying your carbon knife blade frequently, after every task of slicing.Hi Freefly. When you have to force a patina finish on your carbon knife blade, see to it that the resulting finish is not undesirable, you can repeat the steps severally to get a better finish in this case. In conclusion, the best and easiest way to develop a patina is to let it develop naturally. Avoid dipping your knife in mustard or vinegar for long since the blade will be more susceptible to harm eventually.Always care for your knife even if it has a forced patina to reduce susceptibility to harm.In case your blade already has sections with patina, when you undertake a forceful patina, those sections will be much darker.When the vinegar application is complete, dry your carbon knife blade. Avoid allowing the vinegar solution to dry on your carbon knife blade as that can result in the formation of spots for discolouration or rust.These options are great since they allow easier painting of patina patterns or designs on the carbon knife blade. You can also use other acidic patina catalysts such as tomato sauce or yellow mustard.The use of warm or boiled vinegar is preferred since it makes the process of forcing patina on your carbon knife blade to be fast.Materials: Knife blade Things To Remember An acid, here we use apple cider vinegar.You can also do this by cleaning the knife on a water stone, this may not work sometimes as the patina may be deeply etched. I recommend Mothers Mag & Aluminium Polish, I have achieved great results with it. The easiest way to do this is by use of a polishing chemical compound that contains fine abrasive grit. Well, now that you are done forming the patina, you might have second thoughts and would want to clear the patina.
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